Sleeves
Every costume I make seems to have unusual sleeves. However, different as these were they were very easy to put it so that was a plus!
The sleeves sit quite far off the shoulder, seeming on the design to come straight from the collar. However, technically they needed an armhole to be put into. I created straps for the corset that sat off the shoulder for this. I did this on the stand, attaching an arm to my mannequin and draping calico across to create my shape. I have previously only draped full bodices on the stand, so just applied the same ideas and marked out the shape of the strap as I went.
For the actual sleeve pattern, I drew up a basic sleeve block. I removed the sleeve head, just adding a very slight curve across the top of the pattern. I widened the sleeves at the cuff, and lengthened them towards the middle bringing them to a point. These sleeves were the easiest to stitch in as the straps were cut on the bias.
The collar was created much the same as the straps. I draped it on the stand using cheap fun fur, and marked on seams to create more shaping around the shoulders.
